Author Topic: Engine swap - any tips? (Read 67223 times)

Critterman · « **Reply #25 on:** August 25, 2013, 12:39:31 PM »

It is a conspiracy I tell you. Worked for you Scott, must be the magic decoders Snowden brought over

rlhammon · « **Reply #26 on:** August 25, 2013, 04:52:51 PM »

So ran into issues today. You all knew something had to happen, it's Murphy's law.

We broke two different T-40 bits today trying to get the bolts out of the driveshaft on the transmission end. That means the transmission didn't get pulled today when I had help this afternoon. Oh well... need to pick up a few more Craftsman bits apparently tomorrow. All the other bolts are at least broken loose, so when I get the drive shaft out it should go somewhat quickly.

On the engine side... there are a lot of really hard to get to electrical connectors. That's what I've figured out between last night and this afternoon. It appears that everything is ready on the electrical side... now to get a hand tomorrow evening to get the transmission out.

I think I'll need to move the car once the transmission is out... not sure we can get the cherry picker to work in the present location, but I can solve that when we get there.

rlhammon · « **Reply #27 on:** August 28, 2013, 07:43:20 PM »

Got some new T-40 torx sockets and got the bolts out of the transmission side of the drive shaft. I don't have help tonight to pull the transmission, but hopefully that works out on Friday. It's moving slowly... SCCA National Championship is next week... I'm going to miss it.

elff · « **Reply #28 on:** August 28, 2013, 09:28:40 PM »

Thats a bummer. I know thats very important to you.

hammy221 · « **Reply #29 on:** August 29, 2013, 02:01:46 AM »

Hang in there buddy better you take your time and do it right then to rush it and have something mess up.

rotarypiston · « **Reply #30 on:** August 30, 2013, 12:07:24 PM »

Quote from: rlhammon on August 28, 2013, 07:43:20 PM

Got some new T-40 torx sockets and got the bolts out of the transmission side of the drive shaft. I don't have help tonight to pull the transmission, but hopefully that works out on Friday. It's moving slowly... SCCA National Championship is next week... I'm going to miss it.

If you need some help with this, I do not know where in Michigan you are but I am in Oakland County and could assist you if you needed an extra pair of hands. PM me your information and I will try to make it out to you if you need help.

rlhammon · « **Reply #31 on:** August 31, 2013, 02:38:46 PM »

Quote from: rotarypiston on August 30, 2013, 12:07:24 PM

If you need some help with this, I do not know where in Michigan you are but I am in Oakland County and could assist you if you needed an extra pair of hands. PM me your information and I will try to make it out to you if you need help.

Thanks.. on the west side near Grand Rapids.

Problem is I'm trying to finish this over a Holiday weekend... so folks just aren't around. We struggled with removing the torque beam for an hour yesterday before my buddy had to attend to his for dinner. So... I'm sitting here waiting to pull the transmission still, because we haven't got the torque beam out (yet). It will come... just not moving fast enough in my eyes when I need help, but I have to work at the speed of my help now.

rlhammon · « **Reply #32 on:** September 02, 2013, 06:53:10 PM »

**Update**

Engine is out. Torque beam was a pain (as always), and we ended up just removing the differential to get the beam out. I know I've done this previously without pulling the half shafts, but we did and it wasn't too bad after that. I always seem to forget that there are 9 (and not 8) bolts between the transmission and the engine... we found the 9th after pulling a few times.

Engine came out without removing the AC system or the Power steering system. That was nice to keep both of those sealed and not have to deal with filling them.

I'll most likely be changing the diff fluid, as we spilled a bit upon removal. I did this last June when I replaced the differential. I'll also be doing the transmission as I've never changed that. Anyone know the quantity for the transmission? I know you fill until it's "just below" the fill hole... but wondering how much capacity that is then.

Need to start swapping parts from one engine to the other... hopefully I can find time to crank that out during the week and start back with the assembly next week. I'm sure I'll be behind schedule, but all told it has taken ~10 hours to this point spread across many days. I guessed 30 to compete (dealership wanted 22 hours of labor) in the garage... we might be right about that or slightly under depending on how well moving parts goes.

Critterman · « **Reply #33 on:** September 02, 2013, 07:47:52 PM »

Take your time, and do it right the first time. You will be done when you are done.

rlhammon · « **Reply #34 on:** September 02, 2013, 09:41:28 PM »

Quote from: Critterman on September 02, 2013, 07:47:52 PM

Take your time, and do it right the first time. You will be done when you are done.

While I agree... this week is the SCCA National Championships of which I'm missing. I still have a local and divisional championship to at least win, and my next race is in September.

Thinking along these lines... I'm going to be replacing both belt, and I'm thinking about the coolant hoses as well.... hoses look in good shape, but I'll have to check on prices and see if I pull the trigger. Just to easy to change them now that the engine is out.

elff · « **Reply #35 on:** September 03, 2013, 09:55:21 AM »

We had to remove the rear diff to remove the Torque bar on mine.
Spilled the fluid and had to top it off as well.

rlhammon · « **Reply #36 on:** September 07, 2013, 09:08:01 AM »

Got both engines on stands this morning, and cleared out one side of the garage. My trailer and engine lift I borrowed are now in the driveway (after the rain stopped).

Wish me luck... this is all new territory for me.

Gentleman Jack · « **Reply #37 on:** September 07, 2013, 09:14:06 AM »

Sweet!

Kelu · « **Reply #38 on:** September 07, 2013, 09:41:41 AM »

Really good luck

hammy221 · « **Reply #39 on:** September 07, 2013, 09:51:16 AM »

If I remember correctly its about 3 quarts for the transmission and just shy of 2 for the diff

Critterman · « **Reply #40 on:** September 07, 2013, 09:54:59 AM »

we are all pulling for you

ihawk95 · « **Reply #41 on:** September 07, 2013, 11:36:26 AM »

You can do it Rich!! I saw 2 autoX mazdas on I 80 this morning and thought of you!!

elff · « **Reply #42 on:** September 07, 2013, 12:57:53 PM »

Great pic.

Good Luck. I have complete confidence in you

rlhammon · « **Reply #43 on:** September 07, 2013, 04:49:13 PM »

The old engine has everything except the main puller / balancer removed at this point. It took a bit to get the fuel rail out, and when I did... I didn't like what I saw. Each injector is coated black, and two of them you can't even see the injector holes. The service manual isn't really clear about cleaning them, so wondering if anyone here has cleaned them and how you did it. The service manual says "clean with solvent"... so is brake cleaner good as that's about all I have.

I've been putting together the exhaust side (since I had questions about the injectors), and for the life of me I can *NOT* get the turbo oil drain tube to push into the engine block. I've lubed the hole and the tube, and pushed until I was pushing the engine stand around the garage! Need to get that tube before I can finish the turbo and button up the exhaust side of this day.

Learned two things today: 1) You need to install the oil line for the turbo that routes behind the coolant tube from the water pump *before* you connect up the coolant lines. Oh well.. wasn't too long of redo for that one. 2) Service manual says you need to replace the bolt on the balancer pulley (that I haven't removed). Not sure about the install, looks like I'll need some sort of tool I don't have at this point.

Not sure the engine is going back in tomorrow as I had planned, but I'm trying. I'm done for the day here in about two hours... I'll need to move stuff back in the garage and clean up before I watch Michigan beat up the Notre Dame Figthing Irish. (Bonus if you know why I said Figthing).

LatinVenom · « **Reply #44 on:** September 07, 2013, 05:06:24 PM »

Good luck with your project, just take your time to get right.

rlhammon · « **Reply #45 on:** September 10, 2013, 03:33:38 PM »

It turns out that the oil drain tube from the bottom of the turbo back into the engine has changed from my original engine to the new engine. I've found the new part number, and have it on order.. and had to pay expedite charges to get it here this week so i can hopefully drop the engine back in on Saturday.

The only other issue I've run across is the quick disconnect line that runs from the front passenger side of the valve cover onto the turbo. I *can not* seem to remove the quick disconnect line, as the fitting doesn't slide enough to get the quick disconnect tool inserted... so I ordered that, for ~$35.

Hopefully my flywheel bolts show up yet this week, as they are still "in process"... but that's the only three parts I'm waiting on to finish up prior to dropping it back in the car.

TomatoSoup · « **Reply #46 on:** September 10, 2013, 04:16:37 PM »

Quote from: rlhammon on September 10, 2013, 03:33:38 PM

The only other issue I've run across is the quick disconnect line that runs from the front passenger side of the valve cover onto the turbo. I *can not* seem to remove the quick disconnect line, as the fitting doesn't slide enough to get the quick disconnect tool inserted... so I ordered that, for ~$35.

You can remove that by cutting a couple of 3/4" lengths of wide zip-ties and inserting them around the diameter of the metal tube, then push them into the line connector to release the clips. (BTDT)

Or you could just swap the whole valve cover with line still attached(?)

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elff · « **Reply #47 on:** September 10, 2013, 06:17:26 PM »

The last option for the win

That reduces it down to a couple of bolts vs a headache

rlhammon · « **Reply #48 on:** September 10, 2013, 09:25:29 PM »

Quote from: TomatoSoup on September 10, 2013, 04:16:37 PM

You can remove that by cutting a couple of 3/4" lengths of wide zip-ties and inserting them around the diameter of the metal tube, then push them into the line connector to release the clips. (BTDT)

Or you could just swap the whole valve cover with line still attached(?)

The inside of my valve cover is all smashed up from the damage which was done... so, didn't want to do that. I actually did try the zip tie trick on Sunday for about 30 minutes, until which time I managed to mangle the springs on the inside to the point that the connector no longer turns and just "grinds" now.

Oh well... it's located in Chicago, and shipped today, I'll have it tomorrow or Thursday at the latest. Looks like my flywheel bolts finally are shipping, and UPS says Friday arrival. This means, if I get a few spare hands, that the engine could go back in on Saturday or at least hopefully this weekend.

We pulled the transmission from under the car when we took the engine out... but I'm thinking we can drop it in attached to the engine, so that's the plan for the return trip at least.

Going slow... but moving along.

Gentleman Jack · « **Reply #49 on:** September 11, 2013, 01:17:43 AM »

Photo updates?

Love the play by play of a first timer. This is on my bucket list of things do do someday.

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Author Topic: Engine swap - any tips? (Read 67223 times)