Topic: WR3 Build long in the making

[XplosivePlushToy]

Hey all,

Little backstory: my Aggressive GXP was delivered to a dealer in S. FL in Dec of 2006. It was one of the first (I think LV was one of 3 before mine). I did a bunch of work to her, including a tune, I/C and DDM piping and intake, and a bunch of other stuff. 2.5 years ago I started collecting parts for an engine rebuild. Then, courtesy of the high pressure fuel pump issue and 110k on the motor, the valves and the pistons got extremely friendly. Shortly after, I bought my first house and planned on doing reno work for a few months before getting back to the Sol. A few months turned into 2 years and 2 cat 5 hurricanes of the car living under that amazing GM car cover (totally worth the money!) before I had room to bring her into the garage. 2 years of sighing every time another sports car passed me on 95. 2 years of not laying eyes on my Sol. It was torture.

Well the time has finally come for her to be resurrected. 

I never stopped collecting parts, saving up year-round then dumping several grand each black friday. So later today, I begin the grueling process of pulling the motor on this beast. Any tips or tricks are welcome, as mechanical work has taken a severe back seat to carpentry and I'm a bit rusty.

As far as the build is concerned, here's the list (its probably not complete, I'm still finding parts around my house):

Engine and Transmission
Werks WR3 turbo
Wiseco 86.5mm pistons
Carillo H-Beam connecting rods
Fluid dampr crank damper
GMPP Neutral balance shafts
ZZP Ported head and stage 2 cams
Inconel intake and exhaust valves
Werks MLS head gasket
Werks Valve springs
Werks Phenolic Spacer set
Werks hardened timing chain tensioner
Replacement of all gaskets and timing components
Opel fuel rail
AEM E85 in-tank pump
Spec Stage 3+ Clutch
Spec Flywheel
HPTuners
DDM Coil Cover

Suspension and brakes
ST Coilover kit (installed just prior to the kaboom)
DDM Venom brace
Werks tunnel brace
Werks "Canyon Carver" brake kit
Werks Lightweight battery kit

Interior
Sparco Sprint seats with side-mount brackets
AEM UEGO wideband O2
AEM Tru-Boost Gauge

This should be a ton of fun. I'll try to post pictures as I go, and maybe a time-lapse video of the process when I'm done, but definitely nothing along the lines of that fantastic video series by ?FastnForged? (HERB E on YouTube).

Just before she popped

[Kelu]

Nice picture, the plan looks good, probably you read all posts about upgrades experience in all forums.

Here are my advice based on my experience:
- Spec 3+ clutch with their flywheel, very sketchy for daily and bumper to bumper driving, end up putting new stock clutch back because with bigger turbo (GT3071R) I didn't have tq spikes anymore
- Head, depending on porting and improvements, it might become a nightmare to tune
- O2 sensor parallel with the stock sensor might create wrong reading depending which one is first.
- Try not to go over 420-450 crank hp for street because it will be useless no matter the suspension/chassis/wheels/tires upgrades

Good luck and keep us posted.

[Sol Asylum]

Hire Kelu as a consultant, he's been down that road, he now lives close to you compared to Romania, and he needs a job.  He can also turn wrenches and follow directions.

[XplosivePlushToy]

She wont be a daily driver. This is purely for fun. Id really like to tap 550 crank but Im not sure the turbo will support that, even with the E85.

Ive spent many hours in this engine bay, but that was years (and 3 degrees) ago. For tuning, at least initially, I plan on doing remote tuning with Werks.

After tax time, Im looking at a 6pt rollcage from RPM and forgestars with 285s for rubber.

The car already has a Dejon intercooler, DDM charge pipes, AEM/DDM dryflow intake, DDM short shifter, oil catch can, Solo RCD exhaust with no muffler or cat, the GMPP MAP sensors, and most importantly, lil chromies!

[XplosivePlushToy]

Besides the diff bolts and flywheel bolts, what fasteners need to be replaced? I am using ARP head studs as well.

[LatinVenom]

It has been a while, hope you get her back together, good luck.

[Kelu]

She wont be a daily driver. This is purely for fun. Id really like to tap 550 crank but Im not sure the turbo will support that, even with the E85.

Ive spent many hours in this engine bay, but that was years (and 3 degrees) ago. For tuning, at least initially, I plan on doing remote tuning with Werks.

After tax time, Im looking at a 6pt rollcage from RPM and forgestars with 285s for rubber.

The car already has a Dejon intercooler, DDM charge pipes, AEM/DDM dryflow intake, DDM short shifter, oil catch can, Solo RCD exhaust with no muffler or cat, the GMPP MAP sensors, and most importantly, lil chromies!

550hp is hard because of the fueling, especially with E85, I would go C/Q16 for peak power.
Remote tuning is hard, tried that also, switched to local for a very fined tuning, on dyno and on street.
Watch out for existing parts like intercooler, pipes, tb, intake, exhaust not to be a limiter factor for desired airflow.

In my engine rebuild I tried to replace all bolts, especially the ones from timing.

[Steelmesh]

Look into these also:

- Big brake kit
- Upgraded intercooler
- Water/Meth injection (unless you're going e85)
- Radiator upgrade
- Off-road exhaust

Check out this article but looks like you are getting cams (with bigger fuel lobe): https://zzperformance.com/lnf-fueling-article/

[XplosivePlushToy]

I have all new timing components. Not chancing that failure again.

A new i/c may be a possibility. The brackets are all bent to hell and there are scrape marks on the bottom. I think it got trashed by the tow truck. I pulled a few more chunks of rocker arms off the heads too. All of the intake side arms were broken in half. Guess its time to order new lifters too.

As of today, the front of the car is off, along with the radiator and the main wiring harnesses. Im going to try to pull the engine and tranny tomorrow. From what I understand, the torque bar has to be removed entirely to disconnect the driveshaft, which might require dropping the diff, correct? That should be super fun.

Everythibg stuffed back in the garage



EDIT: That ZZP article is nifty. I didnt know they offered a 5th injector kit. I already have a brake kit from Werks and an off road exhaust from Solo. I will be running e85 as well, and have the components to do so.

The radiator, on the other hand, is something Im on the fence about. Ill need to test the new set up on the track to see if I have cooling issues.

[Kelu]

When i change the clutch the disassembly started from the diff, watch out there is a tricky bolt of bell housing very hard to reach.
The engine was removed  from top to bottom without gear box.

Do you have repair manuals?

[XplosivePlushToy]

Yeah I have all the GM manuals on a laptop in my garage. I didnt see any section that mentioned removing both the trans and engine simultaneously though.

[ChopTop]

Under suspension and brakes I don't see a rear chassis brace listed?  I have the DDM one, but I know Werks offers one too.

[XplosivePlushToy]

Are any of em compatible with the center exit exhaust?

[kwtoxman]

Any tips or tricks are welcome, as mechanical work has taken a severe back seat to carpentry and I'm a bit rusty.

Talk to GXP-Coupe1. He built an LNF after it popped with an EFR. Great info and resource. He has a bunch of youtube videos as well.
http://www.solsticeforum.com/forum/f63/efr-6758-upgrade-begins-79433
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLD8QuI96BfggTK6m2RSEwNd5JYROEBePV

Make sure the piston rings are gapped properly. And assembled properly (including keeping gaps opposite).

Lots of ecotec timing chain tensioners failing. There is an aftermarket bolt available to help with some of the issues.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fpSSyXYw1Y4
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Timing-Chain-Upper-Guide-Bolt-FIX-GM-Saab-Saturn-Ecotec-2-0-2-2-2-4L-/152569239814?vxp=mtr
https://www.dormanproducts.com/p-86802-917-954.aspx

A lot of people have had issues with the spec clutches on the kappa LNFs. I'd try another option.

GMTech got 500+ rwhp out of a stock LNF and EFR6758 before he bent the con rods. It's doable with a good tuner.
http://www.solsticeforum.com/forum/f63/lnf-big-turbo-swap-werks-gmtech-team-up-efr-6758-kit-68732/

Good luck and post all the details and the work! Sounds great.




If I were building I would personally go with an twinscroll EFR and have an adapter or header fabricated to make it work (twinscroll makes a significant difference). There is also the EFR 7163 option (twinscroll too) which has the latest EFR tech that the 6758 does not.

Cheers

[XplosivePlushToy]

That 3rd AC compressor bolt can kiss my ass!

That is all.

[XplosivePlushToy]

Talk to GXP-Coupe1. He built an LNF after it popped with an EFR. Great info and resource. He has a bunch of youtube videos as well.

Make sure the piston rings are gapped properly. And assembled properly (including keeping gaps opposite).

Lots of ecotec timing chain tensioners failing. There is an aftermarket bolt available to help with some of the issues.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fpSSyXYw1Y4
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Timing-Chain-Upper-Guide-Bolt-FIX-GM-Saab-Saturn-Ecotec-2-0-2-2-2-4L-/152569239814?vxp=mtr
https://www.dormanproducts.com/p-86802-917-954.aspx

A lot of people have had issues with the spec clutches on the kappa LNFs. I'd try another option.

GMTech got 500+ rwhp out of a stock LNF and EFR6758 before he bent the con rods. It's doable with a good tuner.
http://www.solsticeforum.com/forum/f63/lnf-big-turbo-swap-werks-gmtech-team-up-efr-6758-kit-68732/

Good luck and post all the details and the work! Sounds great.




If I were building I would personally go with an twinscroll EFR and have an adapter or header fabricated to make it work (twinscroll makes a significant difference). There is also the EFR 7163 option (twinscroll too) which has the latest EFR tech that the 6758 does not.

Cheers

Ive been watching and re-watching his videos for a few months now. They are fantastic.

I already ordered the Spec clutch with flywheel and the spacer from Werks. Basically everything on my list is already sitting in my garage. Ive had the 6758 since early 2016 as well. Id love a 7163 but the money has already been spent. I can always upgrade down the road if I want more. Pulling the turbo isnt terrible on this car (got it down to under an hour a few years ago after having some issues with the original KO4)

I'm pretty under the weather today, so all I'm aiming to do is d/c the PS pump, which was cake, the drive shaft at the tranny housing, and the a/c compressor. The latter will be fully d/c'd after I can get the crane on the engine and lift it up an inch or so. I work weekends so I wont be back at it until Tues, but the motor is coming out completely then. I'll have an extra set of hands then too.

EDIT: Just ordered that timing bolt. Thanks!

[Kelu]

That 3rd AC compressor bolt can kiss my ass!

That is all.

So it started  hang in there, it will be a bumpy ride

[ihawk95]

Are any of em compatible with the center exit exhaust?

Yes.  I have the Solo center stacked exhaust and have the probeam and backbone.  No issues.

[Steelmesh]

I have all new timing components. Not chancing that failure again.

A new i/c may be a possibility. The brackets are all bent to hell and there are scrape marks on the bottom. I think it got trashed by the tow truck. I pulled a few more chunks of rocker arms off the heads too. All of the intake side arms were broken in half. Guess its time to order new lifters too.

As of today, the front of the car is off, along with the radiator and the main wiring harnesses. Im going to try to pull the engine and tranny tomorrow. From what I understand, the torque bar has to be removed entirely to disconnect the driveshaft, which might require dropping the diff, correct? That should be super fun.

Everythibg stuffed back in the garage



EDIT: That ZZP article is nifty. I didnt know they offered a 5th injector kit. I already have a brake kit from Werks and an off road exhaust from Solo. I will be running e85 as well, and have the components to do so.

The radiator, on the other hand, is something Im on the fence about. Ill need to test the new set up on the track to see if I have cooling issues.

If you're pulling the engine and trans at the same time, I am curious if you would be able to unbolt the driveshaft and torque arm at the trans, then pull the engine-trans forward and out (I pulled the crash beam and mounts for this); someone should confirm here if possible.  With the 2006 Sols and no torque arm, this is what you can do when pulling engine-trans after unbolting the traditional trans mount in this model year.




Sounds like you got a sick project going


Here are reference pics from my 2.4L Supurbo build just getting started (Werks turbo kit atm):

[XplosivePlushToy]

Since I will be using neutral balance shafts, the fluid dampr, and 86.5mm pistons, will I need to get the crank balanced?

I would like to run fairly high RPMs that should be feasible with the new valve springs and beefed up timing components, provided the fuel system can support it.

[Steelmesh]

Since I will be using neutral balance shafts, the fluid dampr, and 86.5mm pistons, will I need to get the crank balanced?

I would like to run fairly high RPMs that should be feasible with the new valve springs and beefed up timing components, provided the fuel system can support it.

I was digging into this, looking up I4 specific balancing and what I learned is they are balanced with no bob weights so just the crank by itself.  For my build, right now the plan is to inspect it dimensionally, crack check it and use it as is. If the crank is perfectly straight, I am having trouble understanding how it could become unbalanced, maybe more experienced people have some insight here.

I checked my new Diamond Pistons and Rods, they are well weight balanced out of the box; however I didn't check the big/small end weights and I used a cheap gram scale; but to my credit I checked it against some weight Standards (5g, 10g, 50g, 100g) and the scale was spot on.

For spinning high rpms, have you looked into the balancer hub expanding at high engine speed and then cracking the oil pump gears?  This is for sustained high rpm.  I am not sure what to do here yet.  I am getting the ATI balancer and asked about this in another post, but have not got confirmation this is a solution.  The youngs modulus is consistent across steels (1018 = 4340), so even a harder or stronger-than-OEM material wouldn't help here...so I wonder if there is a dimension change.  I got some no-quotes for nitriding the gears, and looking at WPC surface treatment as a possible solution.

[XplosivePlushToy]

According to Dave from PAW, the lnf+trans can indeed come out without dropping the diff/torque arm. A t40 bolt + an impact wrench popped all the driveshaft bolts no problem. I just put her in neutral and pushed the rear wheel with my foot. I left all the bolts in the shaft itself while doing this, but they are completely loose. Gotta love multitasking!

Ill update with a couple pictures in a bit, as they're all on my phone and I'm typing these from my garage laptop.






Side note, the little lightweight earthquake impact gun from harbor freight is fantastic! 450ft/lbs and weighs 2.5lbs. Tiny too! Cant beat it for 80 bucks!

[XplosivePlushToy]

Shes out!!!





Stock clutch about 30 seconds from dying. But she lasted 110k mi and around 11 years!

[Steelmesh]

  Pictures 

[Critterman]

Good job.  Now the fun begins.