Topic: New GXP/Z0K sway bar part number

[kennysabarese]

Unfortunately the cats weren't willing to hold the lights for me to do this at night so it has to wait for another day

[snaponbob]

Unfortunately the cats weren't willing to hold the lights for me to do this at night so it has to wait for another day

A dog would help if it could !!!!!!!!!!! A cat would simply walk away.

[DJTelang]

Am I correct in that if you have a GXP, you only need the rear stabilizer to "Go Z0K?" since the front is the same as the FE3?

[Ben L]

Almost.  I think the ZOK cars have a special beefed up rear crossmember, which is a pain to install because it requires dropping the diff. 

But you can accomplish the same torsional stiffening by adding DDM's Pro Beam, which is an easy driveway install. 

[snaponbob]

Ben is right about the chassis cross member. To accomplicj the complete conversion of a GXP to GXP/Z0K specs requires springs, shocks, sway bars, and cross member. That said, the shocks are retuned to the heavier springs by such a small amount that it is meaningless, so the existing FE3 shocks are fine. If you simply want improved handling and a bit lower stance, that is one aspect. If you plan to compete in SCCA Solo events, then that is something else. So rather than bore you with details, what are your intentions/desires of the Z0K package? With that answer, a bit more detail can be shared. Certainly, in either case, the Z0K changeover makes a good car better and STILL be a nice daily driver.

[wspohn]

Am I correct in that if you have a GXP, you only need the rear stabilizer to "Go Z0K?" since the front is the same as the FE3?

No, while the front bar remains the same outer diameter as the FE3, it is smaller ID and a stiffer bar.  Makes it hard to tell with hollow bars, doesn't it?  Maybe they should give weights as that is the only easy way to tell what stiffness they are if they aren't tagged.

[snaponbob]

No, while the front bar remains the same outer diameter as the FE3, it is smaller ID and a stiffer bar.  Makes it hard to tell with hollow bars, doesn't it?  Maybe they should give weights as that is the only easy way to tell what stiffness they are if they aren't tagged.

If one looks at the crimped ends, there is a difference in the overall thickness because of the difference in wall thicknesses of the two bars.

[Morfious]

In my never ending search for truth justice and the American way, I have discovered another tidbit of info. It would seem that GM, and the urethane bushing makers recommend that you do not use a petroleum based grease to lube the sway bar bushings, this can cause the rubber/urethane to harden and crack. They recommend a synthetic based grease with PTFE, the one they spec only comes in 5 gallon buckets, just a bit more than I need. I did find some in a smaller amount 3 ounces for $3.33 on Amazon or at Ace Hardware. It's called Super Lube Synthetic Grease With PTFE Teflon. I am now trying to find it is a grease tube for a grease gun.

You just have to look for the correct product number. 21036 is the number for a grease gun tube of the lube.  Still looking for a local supplier to grab it from though.



Here is a listing of all the sizes they make, with product numbers:

Super Lube Synthetic Grease With PTFE Teflon
82340........................1 cc Packet of Grease
21006........................................6 cc Syringe
21010........................1/2 oz Tube of Grease
21014............1/2 oz Tube of Grease - BULK
21030...........................3 oz Tube of Grease
21036....................3 oz Cartridge of Grease
41150.............................400 gram Cartridge
41160......................................400 gram Can
41050...............................5 lb Pail of Grease
41030.............................30 lb Pail of Grease
41120..........................120 lb Keg of Grease
41140........................400 lb Drum of Grease

Anyone wanna go halvieses on a 400 lb drum of the stuff?!? 

[smartin]

  If you guys think I need it, I will. 

[lil goat]

You just have to look for the correct product number. 21036 is the number for a grease gun tube of the lube.  Still looking for a local supplier to grab it from though.



Here is a listing of all the sizes they make, with product numbers:

Super Lube Synthetic Grease With PTFE Teflon
82340........................1 cc Packet of Grease
21006........................................6 cc Syringe
21010........................1/2 oz Tube of Grease
21014............1/2 oz Tube of Grease - BULK
21030...........................3 oz Tube of Grease
21036....................3 oz Cartridge of Grease
41150.............................400 gram Cartridge
41160......................................400 gram Can
41050...............................5 lb Pail of Grease
41030.............................30 lb Pail of Grease
41120..........................120 lb Keg of Grease
41140........................400 lb Drum of Grease

Anyone wanna go halvieses on a 400 lb drum of the stuff?!? 

I have a small tube I will be bringing to the meet, enough to do about 100 bushings, Amazon has it and it is actually sold by Ace Hardware if that helps. I just put it on the inside of the bushing when I install it, will use the grease gun later.

[smartin]

That sounds more manageable.

[lil goat]

I carry it with me everywhere I go, never know when you will need some good lube, works better than spit.

[wspohn]

I carry it with me everywhere I go, never know when you will need some good lube, works better than spit.

Geez, I had to look twice to make sure I was still on a car group.....

[smartin]

I guess you've never talked tire shine much then huh?

[kwtoxman]

I did a search on the net and it seems synthetic wheel bearing grease will work for bushings. Any thoughts?

[Morfious]

Quick update, the UPS man just dropped off my GXP ZOK rear sway bar that was ordered 2 months ago.  I guess the nationwide back order is getting better.  This was ordered from Crate Engine Depot.

Looks like I'll be getting bloody knuckles this weekend trying to get it on by myself.

[boardkat]

Quick update, the UPS man just dropped off my GXP ZOK rear sway bar that was ordered 2 months ago.  I guess the nationwide back order is getting better.  This was ordered from Crate Engine Depot.

Looks like I'll be getting bloody knuckles this weekend trying to get it on by myself.

I can second this.  Mine is enroute, arriving Monday, also from CED.  FYI, I placed my order on 10/6.

[kennysabarese]

Quick update, the UPS man just dropped off my GXP ZOK rear sway bar that was ordered 2 months ago.  I guess the nationwide back order is getting better.  This was ordered from Crate Engine Depot.

Looks like I'll be getting bloody knuckles this weekend trying to get it on by myself.

If you need a hand and can wait till next weekend, I'll be available. 

[Morfious]

If you need a hand and can wait till next weekend, I'll be available. 

I'm totally impatient,  I couldn't even wait until the weekend.  It was an early surgery day so I was home by 2 PM.  Install went great.  No bloody knuckles either!!  Got an offset ratching 19 mm wrench from Sears for $11 and things went just fine.

Little bit of info to help out:

Try and wedge the ratchet with the T30 torx bit on it against the A arms while loosening the sway bar bolts.  This will allow you to use 2 hands to get the bolt off since there is tight corners.

When installing the new sway bar, lift each tire with a jack to make placement of the bar over the half shafts easier.  Once it's in place release the tire and jack up the tire on the other side.  This will make getting the bar in place much easier.  I was able to do this alone in my driveway with only hand tools in about 2 hours.  I wasn't trying to set any land speed records and things went smoothly. 

I also greased the front sway bar bushings since I had everything out of the garage as well.  No noises and wow what a difference.

The car stays flat and corners very nicely.  Sending the tail out is very predictable and feels quite balenced.  I'll have to take some more runs on my home town race track to get a better feel for the car, but from my short "test" drive I could tell a difference.

[DCLocal]

 
Hello all, I have also received my Z0K bars and am no looking for a place to have them installed, possibly a dealer.  If anyone has suggestions in the greater DC Metro area, or would like some pocket cash, please let me know. 

I ordered both front and rear along with rear bushings and clamps with the intention of reusing the front bushings.  Now I’m wondering if I should have ordered new bushings for the front.  I’ve had the suspension squeak fixed three times and while the dealer actually supposedly “replaced” something last year (they only lubed prior) I’m afraid the squeak will resume this year as the temps drop.

Any recommendations if I should order new bushing for the front, and if so, which ones?  I see mention in this thread of greaseable 25mm’s but would love a part number and source.

[1LILNDN]

I just bought a front zok .Will that work ok with the DDM probeam.

[wspohn]

I just bought a front zok .Will that work ok with the DDM probeam.

Of course - they do different things, one reducing chassis flex, the other increasing roll stiffness.

I would NOT fit the front ZOK bar without also fitting the rear ZOK bar or you may cause yourself some problems.

[1LILNDN]

Thanks ; I was able to stop the sale until I can get both other things have to come 1st.

[lil goat]

Hello all, I have also received my Z0K bars and am no looking for a place to have them installed, possibly a dealer.  If anyone has suggestions in the greater DC Metro area, or would like some pocket cash, please let me know. 

I ordered both front and rear along with rear bushings and clamps with the intention of reusing the front bushings.  Now I’m wondering if I should have ordered new bushings for the front.  I’ve had the suspension squeak fixed three times and while the dealer actually supposedly “replaced” something last year (they only lubed prior) I’m afraid the squeak will resume this year as the temps drop.

Any recommendations if I should order new bushing for the front, and if so, which ones? I see mention in this thread of greaseable 25mm’s but would love a part number and source.

The replacement bushings are not specific for our cars, we know the Energy Suspension 34mm 2005 Mustang bushings work with the stock brackets. Beyond that it is just a shot in the dark, 1 5/16" is very close to 33-34 mm and there are some greasable ones that MAY work, yet to be seen, someone can take a shot for $20 and find out that is how I found the Mustang ones that work, first set I bought didn't they are now paperweights. The Prothane 19-1180 is a geaseable 1 5/16" bracket and bushing it might be the solution to the squeak problem, I may order a set to see if they work. By the way while you are Jegs get one of these, everyone needs one JEGS #555-80580 - JEGS Lug Torque Wrench


The bushings for the front are according to GM 33 mm, SOB measured them and they were 33.2 mm and the aftermarket 33 mm bushings were 32 mm, they were to tight. Jegs carries the Energy Suspension 34 mm 2005 Mustang bushing that fits perfectly but is not greasable as you use the stock brackets, they also carry the Prothane 34 mm 2005 Mustang 34 mm front sway bar bushing that does come with a bracket, or so the website says, they are not greaseable either.  Both do how ever have grease groves on the inside of the bushing where the stock ones are smooth, these are supposed to help keep the grease in the bushing to prevent squeak, do they work? Don't know yet I have the Energy Suspension on my car. The sway bars are not that hard to change, I can help you. You just need the right tools, jack stands, 18 mm ratchet boxend wrench or open end socket wrench and a 6 mm allen on a 3/8 drive ratchet makes it easier. It helps to have 2 jacks as well. I do know someone who needs your old front sway bar as he already has the GXP rear bar on his NA, I am sure he could be enlisted to help as well.

[Critterman]

I think I just got volunteered.