Author Topic: Losing Boost (Read 58160 times)

elff · « **Reply #75 on:** October 16, 2009, 08:59:40 AM »

Gentlemen Jack
due to altitude/weather you might be fine.
The car might be making the same hp on lower boost.

U238
limp mode can go up to 5 psi initially with the p236 Pending engine code.

Either this weekend or next I am going to resplice all of the wires on my driver ic sensor and see if that does anything.

Gentleman Jack · « **Reply #76 on:** October 17, 2009, 03:15:42 PM »

Quote from: elff on October 16, 2009, 08:59:40 AM

Gentlemen Jack
due to altitude/weather you might be fine.
The car might be making the same hp on lower boost.

U238
limp mode can go up to 5 psi initially with the p236 Pending engine code.

Either this weekend or next I am going to resplice all of the wires on my driver ic sensor and see if that does anything.

Elff,

Here is the really strange part to me:

When We first got the car it was hot. 95+ We had really warm nights and hot hot days (for San Diego) Car was very quick. Now, we have cooler days and nights - 50-65 degrees or so. It is my understanding that cooler is better right? Or are you saying that because it is cooler I don't need as much boost to provide the same power? Never thought about it like that. I thougth that the harder one drove the car, the more in tune to "hard driving" the car would get. and the cooler the weather, the more boost and power one could develop. Perhaps I am mislead in that the engine itself is able to produce more power due to cooler temps that it is requireing less boost and my seat of the pants dyno is relying too much on what my eyes are seeing on the dash?

Thanks for the help. If I am hijacking a thread meant for limp mode, I will kick myself out and start a new...

Gentleman Jack

Uranium-238 · « **Reply #77 on:** October 17, 2009, 05:40:52 PM »

Supposedly, the stock tune is "smart" enough to work through all of that data, and make 260/260 regardless of air conditions.

Kinda sucks...

Gentleman Jack · « **Reply #78 on:** October 17, 2009, 05:57:57 PM »

Quote from: Uranium-238 on October 17, 2009, 05:40:52 PM

Supposedly, the stock tune is "smart" enough to work through all of that data, and make 260/260 regardless of air conditions.

Kinda sucks...

If that's the case, no wonder it was pulling boost. Should have been signigicant HP / TQ gains from 40-50 degree drop in temp. If I remember drag racing 101 - every 10 degree drop in air temp is equal to 1% increase in power? 260*1%=2.6*4=10.4 HP? Thats the premise of a meth injector right?

Anyway, guess a tune will take care of that... just have to wait a few more days / months...
GJ

Ok, so I had to find out if this was the case. Today was a hot day up in the Mountains east of San Diego ( up to 4500 ft) Great roads if anyone is looking for a good drive. Hit 21 PSI, just like you all suggested. So, the stock tune is REALLY Smart. Too smart.

Thanks for the guidance.

GJ

Gentleman Jack · « **Reply #79 on:** October 18, 2009, 10:54:52 PM »

edit. more info and testing on my loss of boost

elff · « **Reply #80 on:** October 19, 2009, 11:34:50 AM »

Jack
Yup, your car is running fine. You are not losing boost. The computer is adapting to the atmospheric conditions.
Like U-238 said. At the lower temps, you need less boost to get the same performance.

I'm going to

Mac · « **Reply #81 on:** October 19, 2009, 10:10:25 PM »

Quote from: Gentleman Jack on October 18, 2009, 10:54:52 PM

edit. more info and testing on my loss of boost

Before you do much more , have you checked the Clamps at the TB? If you bought this and it was Babied they never got into boost. THese stock clamps used on the Ic tubbing is the FIRST thing to check.

Changing boost levels it still should make the same power if all is equal. So first and most common thing is.. those cheep worm drive radiator hose clamps that some one at Gm thought were for Boosted motors pushing 23psi. I had this happen a year ago just after the Gm tune the TB clamps was so loose and they wont retighten and hold long , be there done that replace with T bolts. In the heat here on the river i see from 21-23psi now that its starting to cool(114 all summer) now that someone turned the heat off 18-21ps. But the power in the cool seems much better now in the heat of hell its hard not to ping. seems to be pulling harder in the cool.

Gentleman Jack · « **Reply #82 on:** October 20, 2009, 12:57:47 AM »

Quote from: Mac on October 19, 2009, 10:10:25 PM

Before you do much more , have you checked the Clamps at the TB? If you bought this and it was Babied they never got into boost. THese stock clamps used on the Ic tubbing is the FIRST thing to check.

Changing boost levels it still should make the same power if all is equal. So first and most common thing is.. those cheep worm drive radiator hose clamps that some one at Gm thought were for Boosted motors pushing 23psi. I had this happen a year ago just after the Gm tune the TB clamps was so loose and they wont retighten and hold long , be there done that replace with T bolts. In the heat here on the river i see from 21-23psi now that its starting to cool(114 all summer) now that someone turned the heat off 18-21ps. But the power in the cool seems much better now in the heat of hell its hard not to ping. seems to be pulling harder in the cool.

Is it recomended to change all the clamps or is there one in particular? Who is selling the upgraded clamps?
Thanks]
GJ

Imaj · « **Reply #83 on:** October 20, 2009, 01:03:18 AM »

DDM Works has all the clamps you need in one package.

TomatoSoup · « **Reply #84 on:** October 20, 2009, 10:52:51 AM »

Question - I have the clamps (BTW the set is $26 from DDM) but still have to put them on. How have folks overcome the molded-around-the-clamp piece on the intake hose? Did you just slit the top and slide the new clamp in? Or did you have to cut the whole molding piece off and level it down to the hose? Or somewhere in between?

elff · « **Reply #85 on:** October 20, 2009, 10:54:21 AM »

It peels off or you can carefully use a razor blade.

Deep-GXP · « **Reply #86 on:** October 20, 2009, 01:54:59 PM »

Quote from: TomatoSoup on October 20, 2009, 10:52:51 AM

Question - I have the clamps (BTW the set is $26 from DDM) but still have to put them on. How have folks overcome the molded-around-the-clamp piece on the intake hose? Did you just slit the top and slide the new clamp in? Or did you have to cut the whole molding piece off and level it down to the hose? Or somewhere in between?

Here ya go. Check it out!

http://kappaperformance.com/forum/index.php?topic=1368.0

TomatoSoup · « **Reply #87 on:** October 20, 2009, 03:52:37 PM »

Quote from: Deep-GXP on October 20, 2009, 01:54:59 PM

Here ya go. Check it out!

http://kappaperformance.com/forum/index.php?topic=1368.0

Ahhh. Thanks!

I had wondered if you didn't need to cut it off completely - that maybe the t-clamps would fit (if the top were snipped).

agentsky · « **Reply #88 on:** November 15, 2009, 07:28:43 PM »

I have been having similar issues since my GM LNF 2.0 Tune in April. Engine losing turbo (max PSI of 5-6) intermittently. The first trip back service blamed it on an improper O-ring. That worked for a couple of months, then I had the same issue, sometimes accompanied by rough idling when starting the vehicle. Codes P0236 and sometimes code P0106, same as before. The last visit service blamed it on a bad clamp. It happened again within a week, same codes. From this thread it looks like I should order the DDMWerks T bolt clamps.

I was also getting 21 PSI consistently with the LNF 2.0 tune. Now I get mostly 18 PSI, very rarely 19-20. Could that be attributed entirely to temperature/humidity? We did have a hot summer here in Austin, dry and a near record of over 100 degree days. It has cooled down recently.

elff · « **Reply #89 on:** November 15, 2009, 09:54:35 PM »

The drop in psi will be atmosphere specific.

Just to rule it out, I would get the T-Bolt Clamps

tazz · « **Reply #90 on:** November 17, 2009, 12:02:55 PM »

Even though the literature on GMPP said something about removing the learndown feature for mods It should still Limit Output to not more than the stated values in the literature. Since it says "raises to" or something along that line. Kind of like the stock tune but just a higher value so in Hotter weather you will probably see higher boost values since it takes more to to to those values since the air is not as dense as colder air. I think it just the basic fundamental that the program and OS are built upon.
With that said does Wester's and other Tuners tunes for the ECM operate in the same way?

elff · « **Reply #91 on:** November 29, 2009, 06:01:24 PM »

Got the ol pending code
P0236 Turbocharger Boost Sensor A Circuit Range/Performance

This time I am going to re-splice the wires myself and eliminate the Butt Connectors

elff · « **Reply #92 on:** April 01, 2010, 07:48:37 PM »

Today I got
P0101 Mass Air Flow Sensor Performance
I cleared it once, it came back in 1 minute, then I cleared it again, and it's fine.
WTF??

Kelu · « **Reply #93 on:** April 01, 2010, 07:53:13 PM »

I got P0106 Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor Performance pushing the engine when was pretty cold. I was getting a CEL flash in same situation some time ago too and only when engine was cold and I was pushing it.

I heard many people saying our MAFs are weak, thinking to replace it if it will do it in other situations too.

elff · « **Reply #94 on:** April 02, 2010, 10:47:56 PM »

I'm real curious about what is causing this.
Apparently it isn't just the tune as aftermarket tuned cars are getting similar codes.
Same goes for stock or aftermarket intakes
The MAF is the one similar part between, non tuned, GMPP tuned, Westers and TriFecta tunes.

Can a better one be purchased?

elff · « **Reply #95 on:** April 17, 2010, 10:53:26 PM »

Got another P0101 today.
Today was my Acura Integra Killing day.
1 in the morning
1 about 30 minutes ago.
That's all I'll say

I picked up a bunch of supplies from the auto shop today and totally forgot to get MAF cleaner.

Also,
Anyone know where I can buy a spare MAF shy of the dealer?

Tomorrow I am replacing both 3bar sensors, taking apart the wiring, soldering the connections to eliminate the butt connectors and putting everything back together.
Hopefully all of this will lick this once and for all.

elff · « **Reply #96 on:** April 18, 2010, 03:15:55 PM »

FAWK!!!
The new sensors have the green O-Ring on them. Anyone know where I can pick up the Blue O-Rings.
I really would like to avoid taking them off the original sensors.

Anyway, The MAF has been Cleaned and I rewired the connectors. They were soldered, then heat shrink wrapped. So that should eliminate the wiring as being the culprit.

chuckdoc · « **Reply #97 on:** April 18, 2010, 06:55:52 PM »

Elf, I am still lurking and waiting for an answer. Continue to randomly throw codes, interestingly this never happens during WOT or even when accelerating. Usually either just cruising along at 2500 RPMs or even on starting the car the next day after a leisurely cruise.

elff · « **Reply #98 on:** April 18, 2010, 07:40:39 PM »

NP
I'm being deductive and eliminating things one at a time.
While I am spending a lil bit of my own money for parts, in the long run it's cheaper compared to the time it would take I'd I drop it off at the dealer.

Sly Bob · « **Reply #99 on:** April 18, 2010, 07:55:43 PM »

Quote from: elff on April 18, 2010, 03:15:55 PM

The new sensors have the green O-Ring on them. Anyone know where I can pick up the Blue O-Rings?

Refresh my memory... I know that the colour usually is not an indication of the o-rings size or thickness but is it in this case? Should you not be able to go to a store that sells o-rings wholesale? Maybe I'm being overly simplistic here but there is such a store just a few miles from me.

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Author Topic: Losing Boost (Read 58160 times)